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Jun 24 2024
Surface
Design Dispatch
Hip hop jewelry’s cultural impact and brilliant style, an earth-toned wine store, and Eastern Europe’s vanishing kiosks.
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The Cultural Impact and Brilliant Style of Hip Hop Jewelry

What’s Happening: In a luminous new show at the American Museum of Natural History, decades of the genre’s most memorable pendants, grills, and chains emerge as both in-your-face indicators of deep pockets and conduits for storytelling and celebration.

The Download: Hip hop is having a few high-profile museum moments to toast the genre’s 50th anniversary, but none are looking flashier than the American Museum of Natural History’s celebration of five decades of hip hop jewelry. “Ice Cold” brings together 58 outstanding pieces of bling that have helped define the genre, from giant chains and gleaming grills to diamond pendants that, as Vogue describes, “shine forth with both artistic bravado and a kind of anthropological, cultural significance.” Though the collection’s recent provenance may seem mismatched in an institution known for its dinosaur fossils and entombed ancient specimens, the curatorial team notes that adopting signifiers to flaunt one’s wealth has been happening since the Etruscans.


As flamboyant as it can look, the jewelry does far more than signify deep pockets. Bling can be a conduit for storytelling, commemoration, and aligning with spiritual powers. On that note, expect to see veritable classics that will delight genre connoisseurs and passive listeners alike. Public Enemy’s leather medallion featuring its logo of a Black man caught in a gun crosshairs raised awareness about police brutality. Notorious B.I.G. rapped about a yellow gold Jesus piece in his 1997 hit “Hypnotize.” Nicki Minaj lent her 18-karat white gold Barbie pendant fully encrusted in diamonds and pink enamel. To Alex Moss, the jewelry designer who masterminds pendants for A$AP Rocky and Tyler, the Creator, the confluence of storytelling and artistry embodied by hip hop jewelry elevates it to “art at the highest level.”

One notable piece that wasn’t included: a ring featuring a 14-carat crown encrusted with cabochon rubies and pavé diamonds, designed by Tupac Shakur and last worn at the 1996 MTV Video Music Awards, the “California Love” rapper’s final public appearance before his murder. Drake, the larger-than-life rapper who hails from Canada, snagged the ring at a Sotheby’s auction for $1.01 million in August. The museum wanted to include the ring in “Ice Cold,” but Drake declined. The move bugged Kendrick Lamar, the Pulitzer Prize–winning torchbearer of West Coast rap who credits Shakur as a chief influence. Earlier in the spring, the two artists were embroiled in a well-documented and relentlessly nuclear beef that transpired with the rapid-fire release of multiple diss tracks littered with long-winded personal attacks. Kendrick emerged as the winner, and during his sold-out Juneteenth show at Inglewood’s Kia Forum, he performed one of the tracks, “Euphoria,” with a new lyric: “Give me Tupac ring back and maybe I’ll give you a little respect.”


In Their Own Words: “Jewelry was woven into the fabric of hip-hop culture from the start. It becomes an assertion of who you are,” Vikki Tobak, the show’s curator who oversaw an accompanying Taschen volume, tells Vogue. “It’s a really human trait; humans have been doing that throughout time. When you add the history of hip-hop to the mix, it’s a whole different story. Hip-hop in fashion, and jewelry too, is rooted in customization and mixing—just like the music.”

Surface Says: Maybe it’s time for Drake to hang up his crown.

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What Else Is Happening?

Check-Circle_2x Work is underway to expand the Sheats-Goldstein Residence into an entertainment hub.
Check-Circle_2x In a new TV series, Julianne Moore stars as the restorer who fixed up the Salvator Mundi.
Check-Circle_2x A Florida hedge-fund manager is building a verdant art park for a Richard Serra work.
Check-Circle_2x At $210 million, a Malibu mansion breaks the record for California’s priciest home sale.
Check-Circle_2x To reduce waste, Amazon is phasing out plastic air pillows for recycled paper fillers.


Have a news story our readers need to see? Write to our editors.

PARTNER WITH US

Reach the design world every morning. Find out more about advertising in the Design Dispatch.

STORE

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A California Boutique Brings the Art of Hospitality to Wine Shopping

Tucked into the quiet L.A. neighborhood of Brentwood, Thatcher’s isn’t your typical wine store. Local studio Preen applied nearly two decades of award-winning restaurant design experience to create a relaxed storefront complete with a hi-fi sound system, tasting room, and lounge suited to hosting guests for weekly tastings. In the main shop, hundreds of bottles sit on furrowed white oak cabinets, ready for discovery by eager oenophiles. A private back room counters the main floor’s light-filled ambiance with umber walls, low lighting, and a leather tasting table suited to complement the rare vintages inside.

CULTURE CLUB

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Marco Brambilla Debuts a Times Square Utopia

Last week, film artist Marco Brambilla took over more than 95 of Times Square’s LED billboards with Approximations of Utopia. The three-minute short film brought the Queens Museum’s 1964 World’s Fair retrospective to Manhattan by immersing viewers in an imaginary, post-conflict, and post-scarcity version of the expo. Before the viewing, which took over the plaza for three minutes before midnight, art-world attendees toasted the Italian-Canadian artist with a celebratory cocktail at the Times Square Edition.

When was it? June 18

Where was it? The Times Square Edition, New York

Who was there? Naomi Watts, Billy Crudup, Bob Colacello, Gina Gershon, Waris Ahluwalia, Andrew Kreps, Sean MacPherson, Steven Sacks, and more.

ITINERARY

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Liz Collins: Lightning Wheel

When: Until Aug. 2

Where: Candice Madey, New York

What: The American artist’s latest fiber works explore evolving symbols and forms. Collins merges vibrant colors, queer feminist perspectives, and references to 20th-century abstraction and Theosophist traditions, culminating in large-scale tapestries like Rainbow Mountains that reflect contemporary hopes and anxieties. The show features several recurring motifs including lightning bolts and spheres that highlight Collins’ cosmological explorations through woven, embroidered, and embellished textiles.

ENDORSEMENT

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Issey Miyake x New Balance MT10OV1

The Paris 2024 Summer Olympics isn’t the only place where fashion, art, and sports collide. For proof, look no further than Issey Miyake and New Balance’s first collaborative shoe. The MT10OV1 channels Issey Miyake’s trademark minimalism as a barefoot-effect trail running shoe. Its lugged sole and leather construction make it equally well-suited to the great outdoors or city streets.

THE LIST

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Member Spotlight: Dedon

Dedon’s story begins with a pioneering idea and an inspired vision. The idea—to create handwoven furniture using a sophisticated synthetic fiber, weather-resistant and aesthetically refined—revolutionized the outdoor market. The vision of outdoor living rooms furnished with the same attention to looks and comfort as those inside the home has changed the way we live outdoors, enabling people worldwide to enjoy life together under the open skies.

Surface Says: Dedon’s architectural, hand-woven outdoor furniture wins our heart for its sense of whimsy. From its suspended loungers inspired by nests to the Rilly Collection’s cocoon-like pool chairs, the brand’s distinctive lens stands out.

AND FINALLY

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Today’s Attractive Distractions

It’s time to give Bonnie Erickson, Miss Piggy’s quick-witted creator, her due.

A new book celebrates Eastern Europe’s tiny—and vanishing—kiosk shops.

The world’s oldest wine is preserved at a Roman mausoleum in Carmona, Spain.

Malls are narrowly avoiding a death spiral thanks to Japanese video arcades.

               


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