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Jun 29 2023
Surface
Design Dispatch
Shein’s unfortunate influencer trip, Four Seasons Surf Club backgammon sets, and the pizza’s 2,000-year-old ancestor.
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An Influencer Trip to Mask Shein’s Misdeeds Backfires Badly

What’s Happening: The fast fashion giant has taken its latest misstep in the form of a botched influencer trip to China, where participants met claims of factory worker happiness and corporate goodwill with an uncritical eye. Presumably a maneuver to better the company’s reputation ahead of its rumored 2023 IPO, could the resulting blowback tank the brand’s ever-expanding ambitions?

The Download: Reading between the lines of Shein’s botched influencer trip, the fast fashion giant seems to be trying to give its unsavory reputation a glow-up. The company, which produces 6,000 new garments every day and sells many for under $10, was tasked with proving they don’t use forced labor before the SEC would entertain talks of an IPO. (Don’t mind the lead-laced clothing and dangerous workplace conditions of its partner production facilities.) Shein’s strategies around maximizing profit seem at odds with doing anything meaningful to right its many wrongs.


Perhaps that was the thinking behind a recent influencer trip to Shein facilities in Guangzhou. There, some attendees set out to disprove the “misinformation” and “rumors” hampering the company’s reputation. One creator, positioning themselves as an “investigative journalist,” seemed unaware that real investigative journalists have risked their lives and wellbeing to go undercover and report on the conditions of factories where Shein garments are made.

Diet Prada rounded up the best reactions to the trip. One highlight came from Susan Bailey’s Twitter thread of reasons to suspect the “sample production facility” the group toured was merely a PR prop. Not to mention that, by Shein’s own admission, the company has little reason to produce its own samples since it primarily places orders from external suppliers. Perhaps most eyebrow-raising were the influencers’ recollections of definitely not-staged conversations with factory employees about their satisfaction with 8 AM to 6 PM workdays, “competitive” pay, and midday naps, despite evidence to the contrary.


In Their Own Words: Bailey, a self-described “career changer from fashion to fintech,” summed up her frame-by-frame critique with a mic-drop of a closer: “I don’t know any manufacturer that can afford to cut one garment at a time, not even in China where wages are low. You’re Shein, not Alexander McQueen.”

Surface Says: Always do research before promoting something—though the abundance of documentation on this company and its dodgy behavior seem to preclude it from ever being taken seriously by the fashion community.

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What Else Is Happening?

Check-Circle_2x Models rose through trapdoors on the floor at Dior’s latest menswear runway show.
Check-Circle_2xAllbirds unveils what it bills to be the first-ever carbon-neutral shoe to mixed reviews.
Check-Circle_2xMatt Johnson’s giant sculpture of a sleeping figure heads to a new home in Marfa.
Check-Circle_2xSkims, Kim Kardashian’s shapewear brand, plans to open physical stores next year.
Check-Circle_2x A group of climate activists protests recent charges against their colleagues at the Met.


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RESTAURANT

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A Dutch Bar With Art Tables and Water Views

In the heart of Amsterdam, Studio Modijefsky has deftly transformed a snug corner bar into Marcella—a vibrant beacon of modern elegance. Nestled between Amstelveld and Prinsengracht, the spot has served as a social rendezvous since the 1800s, a legacy encapsulated by the welcoming “Welkom” signage adorning the entrance.

Inside, the luminescent zigzag ceiling, outlined by a neon yellow silhouette, echoes the dynamic feel of the bar, a harmonious blend of terrazzo, wood, and brass fashioned into a structural showpiece. Outside, the café's corner and canal-side strip are dotted with bistro tables and wooden chairs, their tops adorned with sketches by local illustrator Ted Struwer. The allure extends to the waterside, a red neon light beckoning passersby to dock their boats or park their bicycles and soak in the vibrancy of this petite yet spirited watering hole. It’s the perfect setting to tuck into some garlicky snails or one of the menu’s unique local wines.

DESIGN DIALOGUES

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Design Dialogues
No. 57

“When we’re talking about how to accomplish things, and actually getting to the point that we’re able to manifest them in the real world, we have to understand that if we’re not starting by dreaming as high as we can, then who will?” It was an apt question asked by Supernature Labs’ Dror Benshetrit this past spring, as part of Surface and the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) co-hosted Design Dialogues No.57.

Every year, the streets of downtown Savannah and Atlanta transform into a dynamic stage for SCADstyle, a platform where creativity finds its voice through the titans of industry who connect with students to discuss the hottest topics in fashion, beauty, art criticism, architecture, and more. This year’s roster of talent was as influential as ever with headliners like LVMH Prize finalist Raùl Lopez and Tom Ford Beauty’s Dexter King.

Surface enriched the programming by bringing together INC Architecture and Design’s esteemed principals Drew Rolston and Adam Stuart, and Benshetrit, the innovative founder of Supernature Labs. With Surface editor Jenna Adrian-Diaz moderating, they dissected the future of architecture and urban planning against the backdrop of escalating climate concerns and the need for conservation.

ENDORSEMENT

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Four Seasons Surf Club Backgammon Sets

Selections from the Surface team’s endless list of personal obsessions.

British board game designer Alexandra Llewellyn’s custom backgammon set, available exclusively at the Four Seasons Surf Club shop, is the epitome of luxury with a touch of old Miami charm. This bespoke collection effortlessly marries the natural surroundings of the property—refurbished by the hotel brand in 2017 with modern additions by Joseph Dirand and Richard Meier—with the glamour of its iconic restaurant.

Llewellyn’s touch infuses the game with enchanting sea vistas, indigenous birds, flamingos, palm trees, and banana plants, all while echoing the allure of sipping a cocktail beneath the carved stone arches overlooking the ocean. Crafted meticulously by the skilled hands of a master joiner, leather artist, and specialist polisher, each set has journeyed through no less than nine different workshops. Only two, available in daytime and after-dark motifs, were produced—each one a true objet d’art that encapsulates the Surf Club’s legendary aura and will add character to any game night. $32,000

CULTURE CLUB

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Scenes From the Lavish Serpentine Summer Party

This week, the cultural cognoscenti came together at London’s Kensington Gardens for the annual Serpentine Summer Party. Hosted by Michael Bloomberg, Bettina Korek, and Hans Ulrich Obrist, the evening festivities took guests on an artist-led path to see a Tomás Saraceno installation and to this year’s Serpentine Pavilion designed by Lina Ghotmeh. Guests enjoyed Ladurée macarons and spicy cucumber jalapeño margaritas from Casamigos Tequila before ending the night with DJ sets by Benji B and Major League DJz.

When was it? June 27

Where was it? Kensington Gardens, London

Who was there? Sissel Tolaas, Es Devlin, Antony Gormley, Sumayya Vally, Yinka Ilori, Venus Williams, Russell Tovey, Caroline Polachek, Duro Olowu, Zadie Smith, and Alex Israel.

THE LIST

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Member Spotlight:
HUSH

HUSH designs experiences for the world’s most dynamic organizations. The firm seeks to create a world in which people and communities are more inspired, achieve greater knowledge and understanding, and have a deeper engagement with their own environment.

Surface Says: HUSH isn’t afraid to think big, so it’s no wonder that they’re sought out for their ability to turn ideas into full-scale, immersive experiences.

AND FINALLY

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Today’s Attractive Distractions

Scooter, a sparsely hairy Chinese crested, is crowned the world’s ugliest dog.

One doctor’s ongoing quest toward penis enlargement seems to be backfiring.

Before it burned down, this bathhouse fostered New York’s gay community.

In Pompeii, a newly unearthed fresco depicts pizza’s 2,000-year-old ancestor.

               


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