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May 18 2023
Surface
Design Dispatch
Eriko Inazaki scoops the Loewe Craft Prize, reviving ancient fragrances, and a moment of pause at a frenzied Frieze.
FIRST THIS
“It’s now a good time to proceed with kindness, especially in design.”
HERE’S THE LATEST

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Eriko Inazaki Wins the Sixth Annual Loewe Craft Prize

What’s Happening: Japanese sculptor Eriko Inazaki was selected as this year’s Loewe Craft Prize winner by creative director Jonathan Anderson and a jury of industry luminaries.

The Download: Each year, the Spanish luxury house’s foundation looks beyond the silo of fashion to celebrate the enduring impact of art, design, and culture in the form of the Loewe Craft Prize. Conceived with the intention to honor under-recognized makers, the prize unearths new talent and accentuates the importance of craft in contemporary culture. Previous winners run the gamut from a giant, cloud-like textile sculpture to a bulbous lacquered object that resembles a bag of oranges.

This year’s winner, sculptor Eriko Inazaki, was selected from a roster of more than 2,700 working artists by a star-studded jury comprising Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson, Louvre director Olivier Gabet, Naoto Fukasawa, Enrique Loewe, and Patricia Urqiola. Her contribution, a ceramic sculpture whose crystallized surface evokes an extraterrestrial floral bloom, was described by the jury as virtuosic and lauded for its “spellbinding presence.” The highest praise came for her originality of ornamentation, which was described by jurors as unlike anything they had ever seen before.


At last night’s unveiling event, Inazaki provided insight into her vision and the magnitude of being announced as the winner in an emotional speech. “I’m not clear about naming my works, whether it’s art, craft or something else,” she said. “But I’ve been working all this time with the belief that what is a good piece of work goes beyond the boundaries of categories. This was an opportunity for me to realize that my work would resonate with so many people. It is truly an honor, and I am truly happy.”

Two other designers earned special mentions: West African sculptor Dominique Zinkpè’s wooden wall sculpture, The Watchers, deploys carved wooden Ibéji figures to evoke traditional Yoruba beliefs and was lauded for its “sculptural reinterpretation of traditional beliefs and its expansion of what contemporary craft can be.” Japanese ceramicist Moe Watanabe earned praise for her walnut bark box that jurors compared to the ancient Japanese tradition of Ikebana vase making. Its walnut bark construction was commended for its “celebration of the sheer materiality of bark,” while Watanabe’s use of rivets in the piece was seen as a reference to architectural construction and mending traditions.


The work of Inazaki, Zinkpè, Watanabe and the 27 other finalists are displayed as the first public exhibition to be presented at Isamu Noguchi’s former studio, which neighbors his namesake museum in Queens. “He hated what he called ‘the false horizon of the pedestal,’ and wanted to bring sculpture into everyday life,” the museum’s curator of research, Matthew Kirsch, told Vogue of the late visionary. The sentiment dovetails with Anderson’s motives for conceiving the prize in 2016, in the process creating a link between modern fashion, culture, and craft through recognition of skilled artisans.

In Their Own Words: “Craft is the essence of Loewe,” Anderson said following the announcement of the winner. “As a house, we are about craft in the purest sense of the word. That is where our modernity lies, and it will always be relevant.”

Surface Says: In an industry filled with cynics who say there’s nothing new under the sun, is there any higher compliment than true originality?

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What Else Is Happening?

Check-Circle_2x The Kiran Nadar Museum of Art plans to reveal a model for its Delhi building in Venice.
Check-Circle_2x Germany convicts five men for their involvement in Dresden’s Green Vault jewel heist.
Check-Circle_2x Coach’s use of AR mirrors may seem gimmicky at first, but hints at the future of retail.
Check-Circle_2x The University of Oxford will remove the Sackler name from its buildings and positions.
Check-Circle_2x Yale creates a scholarship honoring Mickalene Thomas, who will mentor recipients.
Check-Circle_2x The Vitra Design Museum will feature photographer Iwan Baan’s first major retrospective.
Check-Circle_2x Lisa Schiff closes SFA Advisory after being accused of operating a Ponzi scheme.


Have a news story our readers need to see? Submit it here.

SURFACE APPROVED

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Toast Art Week and NYCxDesign With Mortlach

When it comes to craft, Mortlach Single Malt Scotch Whisky is peerless. On the heels of Mortlach by Design, a series of design commissions with the industry’s foremost talents, the original Speyside distiller is bringing its signature cocktails and tasting experiences to New York City’s most exclusive restaurants and bars. Surface readers are invited to the week’s select tastings, beginning tonight at the Campbell and Brandy Library.

Kindly note, admission is by RSVP only.

BEAUTY

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How Astier De Villatte Is Reviving Ancient Fragrances

Perfume is often considered an olfactory time capsule, not only capturing the memories of the wearer, but serving as a reflection of the time and place of its creation. As years pass and trends come and go, so too do the given era’s fragrances thanks to the available materials, fashion, and regulations.

Astier De Villatte, a French company founded in 1993, seeks to revive artifacts forgotten to time, and has most recently set its sights on perfume. To achieve this feat, they enlisted perfume historian Annick Le Guérer and master perfumer Dominique Ropion to resurrect three fragrances from bygone eras. They include Le Dieu Bleu, a reinterpretation of a kyphi, or an Egyptian incense; Artaban, the royal perfume of Ancient Rome; and Les Nuits, the perfume of French novelist George Sand.

To bring these fragrances back to life, the duo paired ancient recipes and artifacts with state-of-the-art technology. Le Guérer provided Ropion with the actual formulas for the Ancient Egyptian and Roman perfumes, as well as the dregs of an old vial of Sand’s scent. The perfumes were precisely recreated with a modern approach, replacing ingredients no longer compliant with today’s safety regulations while maintaining each scent’s complexity, depth, and integrity. The distinct collection unearths fragrances once feared lost to time—and offers a new generation the chance to create their own olfactory portal to the past.

ARTIST STATEMENT

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At a Frenzied Frieze, ektor garcia Offers Moments of Pause

Installed on the eighth level of The Shed and realized with the support of Maestro Dobel Tequila, the Californian artist’s wondrous new installation combines materials old and new to embody circularity and teardrops from the haunting tale of “la llorona.”

Here, we ask an artist to frame the essential details behind one of their latest works.

Bio: ektor garcia, 37, New York.

Title of work: la llorona (2023).

Where to see it: Frieze New York at The Shed until May 21.

Three words to describe it: Tears, solid, porous.

What was on your mind at the time: The circular nature of my work, my devotion to nature and the natural, and how the la llorona legend has haunted me over the years and come up again and again in my work and life. I recently gave a visiting artist talk at UCLA and Parsons, where I shared slides from my time in Chicago over the years, and noticed how my body is always drawn to bodies of water like la llorona.

I recently went to MoMA to see Black Power Naps by Navild Acosta and Sosa. I’ve heard of it for so long, and in their La Biblioteca Is Open installation I noticed a Gloria Anzaldúa children’s book titled Prietita and the Ghost Woman/Prietita Y La Llorona. As soon as I opened it, several pages spilled out onto the floor. I laughed at this and felt it was surprisingly related to my work and investigation of the myth of la llorona.

DESIGNER OF THE DAY


Making friendship bracelets at summer camp sparked a lifelong interest in and “borderline obsession” with textiles and fiber crafts for William Storms, who taps into the meditative quality of weaving to create in-demand home textiles for the likes of Sunbrella, West Elm, and Crypton Fabrics. An avid traveler, his interest in weaving is intrinsically tied to the language associated with craft—and the communities from which each technique or textile comes from.

ARCHITECTURE

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ICYMI: Lesley Lokko Is Focused on the Future

For the first time since the Venice Biennale established an architecture event in 1980, its main exhibitions will focus on Africa and the African Diaspora. That’s largely thanks to Ghanaian-Scottish architect and academic Lesley Lokko, who was tapped to curate this year’s edition. Much like the Diaspora, which she describes as “that fluid and enmeshed culture of people of African descent that now straddles the globe,” Lokko’s career has been defined by inhabiting—and navigating—various worlds.

PARTNER WITH US

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THE LIST

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Member Spotlight: Pophouse

Pophouse is a full-scope design studio focused on the built environment. Located in Detroit, the brand works on both commercial and residential projects with a specialty in workplace, hospitality, and retail. Their team of designers and strategists works to positively impact people through interior, industrial, and environmental graphic design.

Surface Says: Clients flock to Pophouse for the studio’s demonstrated ability to create considered spaces unafraid to stray from convention.

AND FINALLY

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Today’s Attractive Distractions

Dropshipping scammers are derailing Etsy’s promise of “shopping with a soul.”

Peter Kaestner is on an adventure-filled quest to scope out 10,000 bird species.

This seven-year-old fashion designer insists he was Guccio Gucci in a past life.

Posting as a professional influencer on TikTok is coming naturally to Gen Z.

               


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