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Nov 18 2020
Surface
Design Dispatch
Daniel Arsham’s slam dunk, unpacking the decline in luggage sales, and a gin brand’s stationary penny-farthing.
FIRST THIS
“My goal is to remain curious and keep discovering new ways of making.”
HERE’S THE LATEST

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Daniel Arsham to Be Creative Director of the Cleveland Cavaliers

What’s Happening: Daniel Arsham, an Ohio-born artist whose best-known works are eroded casts of cultural objects and whose prolific career spans partnerships with Porsche and Dior, has been named creative director of the Cleveland Cavaliers.

Why It Matters: The Snarkitecture co-founder becomes the first artist ever to hold such a position. Until now, the NBA has never appointed an artist as creative director of a team, a role typically reserved for pop culture icons like Drake, who served as artistic director to the Toronto Raptors. In his new role, Arsham will be tasked with revitalizing the team’s brand identity, which entails managing social media accounts and designing team apparel. He also becomes a minority partner in the team—another first between an artist and professional sports franchise.

In Their Own Words: “Basketball, as a global phenomenon, is a recurring theme in my work and I am a longtime Cavs fan,” Arsham said in a statement. “Most people don’t know that I have strong personal ties to Cleveland. My family’s Cleveland roots go back to 1908 when my great grandfather moved to The Land. My grandfather, father, and I were all born in Cleveland.”

“Becoming a big brand in the NBA has historically been about geographic location or having a superstar player,” Grant Gilbert, the team’s director of brand strategy, told The Wall Street Journal. (Gilbert, along with Library Street Collective co-founder Anthony Curis, initiated the partnership.) “No team has taken it upon itself to do the things we’re talking about doing in terms of building a new narrative.”

Surface Says: We didn’t think Arsham’s influence could possibly grow any larger, but he continues to surprise us.

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What Else Is Happening?

Check-Circle_2x Frieze Los Angeles and Art Basel Hong Kong have both postponed their 2021 editions.
Check-Circle_2x Harry Styles’ viral cardigan will enter the Victoria & Albert Museum’s permanent collection.
Check-Circle_2x A theater and museum complex resembling a suspended cloud is planned for Siberia.
Check-Circle_2xManlio Armellini, the man behind Salone del Mobile’s propitious growth, dies at 83.
Check-Circle_2x In response to rising sea levels, a series of floating islands are heading to Copenhagen.
Check-Circle_2x A theater at the beloved Jacob’s Pillow in Massachusetts has been destroyed in a fire.


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SURFACE APPROVED

Lawrence Fairchild’s passion project, Perrarus, returns with its second collection of well-designed, large-format collectible wine bottles, meant to be the focal point of the world’s finest wine cellars. Perrarus 2: The Art Series features 350 limited edition, hand-blown glass bottles featuring artwork by Cédric Bouteiller in his Provence, France studio.

No two bottles are alike—each is uniquely numbered and adorned by labels featuring his neon stenciled graffiti art. Similar to buying an artwork on the closing night of its gallery debut, the 1.5 or 3 liter bottles are expressly delivered in an exhibition-style art crate box. The distinctive blend of Cabernet Sauvignon originates from five highly coveted vineyards stretched across Napa Valley soil.

Every Perrarus collection, which changes each year, is available by lottery only, with a one bottle limit per person.

BUSINESS OF DESIGN

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Unpacking The Draconian Decline in Luggage Sales

The Download: Luggage brands saw a jaw-dropping 80 percent decline in sales because of the coronavirus pandemic. The world’s largest luggage brand, Samsonite Group, saw a $953.4 million loss in the first six months of 2020, while DTC unicorn Away had to furlough half of its staff after sales plunged by 90 percent. (In September, the brand hosted its first-ever sale to bolster revenue.) Their misery has company: travel and hospitality have been among the hardest-hit sectors by COVID-19, with air travel seeing a 70 percent decline and hotel occupancy plummeting to 20 percent.

The Outlook: In response to the pandemic, both legacy and DTC brands have pivoted to travel accessories, anticipating a renaissance in domestic travel and road trips. Rimowa launched products outside the luggage category for the first time in its 122-year history, including iPhone cases, sunglasses, and handbags. Start-up label Paravel fast-tracked the launch of a beach tote, which sold out, and a belt bag outfitted with compartments for hand sanitizer and masks. Away has released a suite of new products, from backpacks to everyday duffles to fanny packs, all designed for non-air travel. (They will also donate 100 percent of proceeds from a special-edition collaboration with Master & Dynamic to coronavirus relief.)

In Their Words: “If they’re [customers] traveling domestically rather than internationally, or taking fewer trips, they might decide they can spend more on their suitcase,” says Josh Udashkin, general manager North America for Rimowa. “What is clear is that our sales are no longer tied to air travel. There is a whole host of unknowns. The desire to travel is not going anywhere—that much is evident—but the question is whether people may think of travel differently. And perhaps it might even change for the better.” Cuan Hanly, SVP of product design and merchandise at Away, discovered a surprising trend in recent months: an uptick in purchases of bigger suitcases. “People were moving home to their parents,” Hanly says. “They were renting Airbnbs. Our luggage was useful in these moves.”

Surface Says: Fewer hotel stays and reduced airplane travel diminishes the necessity of compact luggage. Let the race to launch a retro steamer trunk begin!

ITINERARY

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Guillermo Santomà: Pista de Baile

When: Until Jun. 30, 2021

Where: Espacio Intermediae Matadero, Madrid

What: The Barcelona artist and designer creates a literal cave within a cave—a large wire mesh contains a mantle of concrete suspended overhead, while a radiant sun-like sphere of light inside offers warmth. A poignant commentary on a material that continues to blanket the earth via houses and motorways, the installation also offers viewers a welcome sense of escapism during turbulent times. (In Spanish, “pista de baile” translates to “dance floor.”)

FASHION

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At Accra Fashion Week, 5 Rising Talents Reflect on the Times

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Accra has been spotlighting the city’s high-energy, feel-good fashion scene for the past four years, having elevated local designers whose vibrant, eclectic textile work is created both ethically and sustainably. Originally scheduled for October, the event was postponed until late 2021 due to the coronavirus pandemic. In lieu of a physical show, the German automotive brand produced a photo series shot by Carlos Idun-Tawiah that showcases new collections from five of Accra’s most promising rising talents: Larry Jafaru Mohammed, Steve French, Hassan Alfaziz Iddrisu, Atto Tetteh, and Chloe Asaam.

Despite the lack of physical shows this year, Idun-Tawiah’s photographs convey each designer’s distinctive talents and practically transport viewers to the vibrant streets of Accra. Taking cues from streetwear, contemporary art, and the city’s culture, each designer focuses on innovating traditional Ghanaian textiles by using eco-friendly production methods and celebrating a sense of Pan-Africanism. Idun-Tawiah’s documentary portraiture-style photographs also spark conversations about how—historically in Ghana—skills and lessons are transferred from generation to generation, laying fertile ground for collaborations between designers and other creatives. They also speak to the resilience of an intrepid group of creative talents who are forging ahead despite scarce resources, supply chain limitations, and dampened moods caused by the pandemic.

DESIGN DOSE

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ICYMI: Pleats Please Issey Miyake Musa

Issey Miyake, one of history’s greatest pleaters, has introduced a new series inspired by ancient Greek mythology goddesses of music. As most audiophiles know, any great song has structure, including a chorus, verses, and a bridge. So too do Miyake’s garments, which are fashioned from a single thread and then heat treated with a permanent pleat. The accordion folds first became their own brand made for everyday wear after debuting in his Spring Summer 1994 collection. Washable and packable, Miyake’s pleats are being reimagined yet again with sculptural ensembles that glide along the body like a slinky.

Pleats Please Issey Miyake Musa is a virtuoso assembly of tops, pants, and jumpsuits festooned with colorful brush-like strokes. Available in two colors—orange and grey—the former portrays a goddess singing in soft sunlight while the latter depicts the same scene in moonlight. Suitable for occasions day and night, the statuesque garments are versatile, wrinkle-proof, and don’t require dry cleaning. “Design is not for philosophy, but for life,” Miyake says, reflecting on his brand’s fundamental concept: wearability.

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THE LIST

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Member Spotlight: Joseph C. Furniture

Joseph Chun creates handcrafted wooden furniture that’s both durable and functional. He draws inspiration from his life journey, which has taken him from Seoul to Wisconsin, North Carolina, and New York City. Now based in Red Hook, Brooklyn, he aims to share his story through his work.

Surface Says: Joseph Chun’s gorgeous, singular forms give way to delightful easter eggs that elicit a sophisticated whimsy.

AND FINALLY

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Today’s Attractive Distractions

Athens sewage workers find a bust of Hermes built into a drainage duct.

Hendrick’s Gin is selling a stationary penny-farthing bicycle. We need a drink.

On that note, Bacardi will permanently use biodegradable bottles by 2023.

Fendi’s latest array of gadgets bring a dose of glamour to home gaming.

               


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