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Sep 15 2020
Surface
Design Dispatch
CFDA Awards names 2020 winners, West Coast wildfires worsen, and rent the Fresh Prince of Bel-Air mansion.
FIRST THIS
“Everyone looks for something they feel comfortable with.”
HERE’S THE LATEST

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The 2020 CFDA Awards Strides Toward Diversity

Under normal circumstances, the Council of Fashion Designers of America would present its annual Awards—often cited as the fashion industry’s Oscars—at a lavish star-studded ceremony. The pandemic has, of course, changed things, making instead for a toned-down affair presented in a crisp black-and-white film by CFDA chairman Tom Ford. In the video, Ford notes that the absence of an in-person gala has allowed the CFDA to “redirect our efforts toward scholarships and racial diversity.”

This year’s winners seem to reflect that positive change. The environmentally driven Gabriela Hearst and Surface cover star Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss won American Womenswear Designer of the Year and American Menswear Designer of the Year, respectively, both beating out Ford. Telfar Clemens took home top honors in the Accessories category while Christopher John Rogers won American Emerging Designer of the Year. On the global stage, Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino received International Women’s Designer of the Year; Dior Homme artistic director Kim Jones, recently named the artistic director of Fendi, won International Men’s Designer of the Year.

In a statement, the CFDA noted that this year’s winners represent “the most diverse group of recipients in the 39-year history of the awards.” It also represents a group that eschews industry expectations to do things on their own terms. Jean-Raymond often forgoes runway conventions and skips NYFW seasons, choosing to instead use his label as a community incubator. By selling directly to consumers through a series of drops, Telfar can barely keep his wildly popular it bag—a genderless item that has resonated with the queer community and people of color—in stock. The winners suggest a promising path forward for the CFDA, which has partnered with the Black in Fashion Council and appointed CaSandra Diggs as president to help usher diversity into an industry that needs it. We hope they can maintain that momentum.

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What Else Is Happening?

Check-Circle_2x Golf courses may emerge as an unlikely fix to Los Angeles’s affordable housing crisis.
Check-Circle_2x Scientists are digitally mapping Venice to make sure the sinking city lives on forever.
Check-Circle_2x Art by Black creators has started replacing celebrities on the covers of glossy magazines.
Check-Circle_2x A deteriorating waterfront park in Seattle crumbles into the Puget Sound, injuring two…
Check-Circle_2x ...while Facebook expands in the region by scooping up REI’s abandoned Seattle office.
Check-Circle_2x Burger King’s new Covid-friendly eateries focus on mobile ordering and curbside pickup.


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ITINERARY

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Jean-Michel Othoniel: Dream Road

When: Sept. 16–Oct. 24

Where: Perrotin, Tokyo

What: The French sculptor recasts his mirrored glass necklace-like works as sacred talismans inspired by the chrysanthemum flower and its symbolism in ancient Japanese culture. They exist inside an enclosed forbidden garden, which Othoniel named “Dream Road,” or “yumeji” in Japanese, which bears a dual meaning: “to dream” and “to meet someone you love in your dreams.” In doing so, he proves how seemingly simple things such as flowers unlock emotion, offering new ways to perceive our surroundings.

BY THE NUMBERS

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Air Quality Index Recorded in Northern California

The disastrous consequences of climate change are currently being felt on the West Coast. Thanks to a dry lightning storm (and a gender-reveal party gone wrong) after years of record heat and questionable forestry practices, more than 100 wildfires have shrouded the entire West Coast in an ominous orange-red haze. It’s a massive environmental and public health crisis—particulate matter from the smoke has made the air unhealthy to breathe all along the coast, causing widespread health concerns such as increased risk of heart attack, stroke, and premature death for millions.

PurpleAir, which measures hazardous air pollutants using monitoring sensors, released a map that shows air quality indexes (AQIs) upwards of 770 in Northern California. (For context, the EPA considers AQIs above 150 to be unhealthy for everyone; anything above 500 is beyond index.) “Decades of research have shown that elevated air pollution exposure is associated with a number of adverse health impacts, including compromised immune systems,” Dr. Erin Landguth, an associate professor of public and community health science at the University of Montana, tells the New York Times. She adds that “after bad fire seasons, one would expect to see three to five times worse flu seasons” months down the line.

BEAUTY

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ICYMI: A Men’s Grooming Brand with a Fashion Ethos

Men’s grooming, but make it fashion. That mantra is the guiding inspiration for Homme, a new subscription-based line of sustainable hair, body, shave, and face products launched by a group of friends with backgrounds in art, design, and fashion. “We looked at a lot of fashion brands,” says founder Mathias Krigh, who studied at Parsons and worked with the likes of Donna Karan and Levi’s, for the branding. “You can connect to Chanel through some of our feeling and simplicity, and you can connect to Comme des Garçons in certain aspects.”

Homme, however, is more than a sleek label. Krigh hails from three generations of barbers and his mom is a makeup artist, so he was exposed to the world of grooming at an early age. All 13 products are vegetarian, free from sulfates and detrimental parabens, and made with all-natural ingredients such as charcoal and seaweed. Two predominant scents, tea flower and birch, pay homage to Homme’s Swedish roots. “If you go into the Scandinavian forest, that’s most of the trees you see. It’s like the flower of our country,” Krigh says with a laugh. “It very much fits into our heritage.”

THE LIST

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Member Spotlight: l’aviva home

l’aviva home is a New York product design studio creating exclusive home collections borne from collaborations with master artisans from around the world. The brand seeks out the most seasoned, skilled artisans and immerses themselves in the creative process, balancing experimentation with diligent attention to detail.

Surface Says: l’aviva home approaches every project with meticulous perfectionism, resulting in collections that are at once raw and refined. For more than ten years, the brand has helped the trade bring one-of-a-kind handmade pieces into both residential and commercial projects.

AND FINALLY

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Today’s Attractive Distractions

You can now rent the Fresh Prince of Bel-Air mansion on Airbnb.

Feel free to touch, mold, and shape these innovative glass vases as you see fit.

Edoardo Tresoldi brings a group of wire pillar sculptures to Reggio Calabria.

The playful Instagram @animalsinthings is exactly what it sounds like.

               


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